Adventure, Mexico, Photographs, The Great Adventure, Travel

Photo Friday: The Mastur-Bar and the Toltec Empire

The first photo this week is not actually a great picture, but I absolutely love it:

Photo by André

Photo by André

Yes, that sign says it’s a MASTUR-BAR. But not just any mastur-bar! This one has ambiente familiar—in other words, a family environment.

I don’t know what kind of family goes to a mastur-bar together, but I support this concept and I’m glad it exists. Who among us hasn’t ever gone into a bar and just wished we could rub one out? Preferably with siblings and cousins in attendance? I literally made a U-turn when I saw this sign to make sure I got a picture.

The only explanation I can come up with is that this is a bit of Spanglish. Businesses in Mexico often use English words to seem hip, and they don’t always nail the spelling. Maybe this is supposed to the the Master-Bar, which sounds somewhat more appealing and a whole lot cleaner.

The best part is it’s just as bad in Spanish. The word for “to masturbate” is masturbarse. So this has to look just as ridiculous to every Mexican driving past as it does to me. That makes me wonder what kind of clientele they get, and how family-friendly it really is.

Okay, let’s clean it up guys. On to something a bit more spiritual:

Photo by André

Photo by André

That’s the view of one pyramid from on top of another pyramid at the Tula de Allende Archaeological Site. (Tula is the same town with the mastur-bar, by the way.) This is one of the more stunning pyramid sites in Mexico. It’s not as famous as the great pyramids of Chichén-Itzá, which I’ll bike past toward the end of my journey. But the two sites are very similar, so much so that archaeologists suspect the Toltecs from Tula influenced the Mayans who built Chichén-Itzá.

The most famous part of Tula’s pyramids is the Atlantes, however:

Photo by André

Photo by André

The Atlantes are giant warrior statues atop the more important of the two pyramids—the one I took the first picture from. This pyramid is believed to be dedicated to Quetzalcoatl, one of the most important Toltec deities who went on to be worshiped by the Aztecs (and the Mayans, under a different name).

You can see what the Atlantes look like without silhouette here.

Although most people come for the Atlantes, I was taken with a different part of the pyramid. The wall around it is decorated with carvings, and they’re pretty incredible:

Photo by André

Photo by André

In case you can’t tell, those are skeletons being devoured by rattlesnakes. There’s a similar motif on the walls at Chichén-Itzá, but they’re not nearly as well preserved. Besides being incredibly badass, the carvings represent the ritual of human sacrifice, which was a Big Deal to the Toltecs.

Fortunately, I’m not Toltec. I offered plain ol’ incense to Quetzalcoatl. As the smoke rose up to the heavens, the trill of a traditional flute pierced the air. The source? A peddler hoping to sell me a traditional flute.

Some things are the same the world over.

Adventure, Bicycling, Mexico, Road Logs, The Great Adventure, Travel

Breakdown in the Wirikuta Desert

Last time I explored ghost towns and silver mines. This time, I get back on the bicycle for the next leg—across a wide empty desert.

The Giant getting ready for the trek.

The Giant getting ready for the trek. Photo by André

Sunday, November 23, 2014 (Day 870 of the Great Adventure)—To Charcas

My departure from Cedral brought a certain sense of relief. While the side trip to Catorce was one of the highlights of my trip, Cedral itself was humdrum. I had become too settled in routine my little apartment. I was eager to be back on the road.

This segment seemed particularly promising. My route would take me west and south, essentially going around the rectangular block of mountains I had just ascended to visit Real. It was a total of 75 miles of desert, aiming toward the distant city of Charcas. It would be open, desolate territory with stunning mountain views, and I got on the bike eagerly.

For some reason I decided to leave town by a main street, past the market and the town square, instead of heading right for the highway. This proved fateful. Not 150 meters into my 75 mile ride, I rolled over a row of metal topes (speed bumps) a little too fast. My toolkit jumped in my front basket and, unknown to me, something gave in my back wheel. Minutes later I heard a faint noise I couldn’t diagnose and, much much later, it would come to a head in the desert.

I left this toy from a Kinder egg hanging where the niño's would find it.

I left this toy from a Kinder egg hanging where the niños would find it. Photo by André.

The way out of town was hard for other reasons. Once on the highway the wind was against me, cold on the skin and rough on the lips, making the pedaling very hard. I knew it was only for 12 miles or so—after that I’d be able to “turn the corner” around the block of mountains and head south, the wind coming from my side. But it was a long 12 miles and slow going.

After the corner I took a moment to catch my breath in the town of Vanegas. From here onward, a set of train tracks ran along the road the whole way south. Mountains, desert, empty town, rails: it made for the perfect desert scene. It’s startling how the mountains of the Wirikuta rise so suddenly out of an otherwise flat desert, no foothills or rolling terrain leading up to them. I was grateful for it though, as flat land is a biker’s friend.

That thin white ribbon? That's the road I originally planned to take.

That thin white ribbon? That’s the road I originally planned to take.

My pace improved on the next leg, but something was wrong. I didn’t like the noise coming from my bicycle. For the time being I couldn’t identify the cause, but the back wheel was wobbling. That wobble got worse as the hours wore on.

There are a few towns along the Wirikuta road/rail, and at first it seemed like a reasonably well traveled route. The most substantial of them is Estacion de Catorce, or Catorce Station, so named because it’s the closest train stop to the road to Real de Catorce. (The back road, not the tour bus road through the tunnel.) I had toyed with the idea of stopping there for the night instead of Charca. Once I reached the town, however, I really just wanted to keep going. There was a lot of daylight left, plus if I could move quickly I’d be able to catch the Wandering Dragon in the city of San Luis Potosí.

So on I went.

Just outside of Estacion I came around a bend in the road and did a double take. There on the roadside, standing near the train crossing, were two gueros. I was a little stunned to see other people of my own race—I was definitely an oddity in Cedral. I was so stunned that I didn’t really pull together any words to say hi as I whisked by, but I flashed them a smile and they waved as I went. It occurred to me that the area is a big draw for hippies, what with the Huichol shamans and the peyote pilgrimage. (Indeed, earlier at another bend three people with a large drum were waiting at a train or bus stop. When they spotted me one began playing and two began chanting. It was a nice little sendoff.) I supposed that my two pale-skinned comrades were either waiting to go up the mountains or had just come back down, and I thought no more of it.

It was around that time that my bike problems got serious. The noise got louder, and I could now see the wheel wobble. The side of the tire rubbed against the frame on every rotation. That’s a big problem, one which can rub right through the tire and ultimately destroy it.

This led to a series of attempted maintenance stops. One was under the shade of a mesquite tree near the driveway entrance to a ranch. I took all the bags off the Giant and turned him upside down hoping to diagnose the problem. I barely noticed that a pickup truck turned off the road onto the ranch drive and then stopped. People got in or out, most likely ranch workers. I focused on my machine.

“Ach, it leuks like he’s go’ a problem.”

The accent vaguely resembled Scrooge McDuck’s Scottish ancestor on Duck Tales. My ears perked up nonetheless; it was the first strain of fluent English that hadn’t come from me or one of my friends in two weeks.

Walking over from the pickup truck at the ranch drive were the two gueros I’d seen earlier. The faux-Scot voice was the man of the couple, actually from Belgium; the woman was his Canadian girlfriend. As they walked toward me I had a brief hope that perhaps one of them was a talented bike mechanic. Neither was.

Still, it didn’t hurt to have company. While I spun my wheel and looked for the source of the problem, they told me they were hitchhikers. They teach yoga somewhere in the Baja, but were on walkabout (rideabout) for a few weeks. The woman spoke of the “desert energy,” (as in “the desert energy is much stronger here”) while the man tried to figure out what the next nearest town was. Their Spanish was a hair better than mine and they were able to sustain a sort of conversation with several drunk ranch workers who wandered over. Seeing the hitchhikers up close, I actually realized I had seen them—just for a moment—in the public market of Cedral several days earlier.

While we chatted I made a decision on the bike wheel. This decision involved several factors:

  • I did not know the exact problem, or how to fix it.
  • The symptoms were similar to when my rear axle broke about a year earlier. When that had happened, the bike ran grudgingly until I tried taking the axle out; after that I was grounded. Thus, I didn’t exactly want to take the wheel apart to confirm or refute my guess.
  • I had a lot of miles to cover. Sitting around tinkering would mean not reaching Charcas today.
  • There were no more hotels before Charcas.
  • The desert night would be dangerously cold to camp in.

So I improvised. Without giving a technical explanation, I essentially rigged the wheel so that it was still wobbling but wasn’t quite hitting the frame.

The drunk ranchworkers offered us all beer, but none of us accepted. I posed briefly for them to snap a picture, and laughed along with some Bourbon Street talk once they heard I’m from New Orleans, then said my goodbyes and went on my way. I have to admit a little envy, and a lot of admiration, for the hippies and their hitchhiking. While my way of traveling involves a lot of freedom and is rewarding physically, theirs is clearly easier. They seemed quite calm and comfortable getting dropped at a ranch entrance and waiting for another car in any direction to any town. They had no mechanical issues, less physical strain and less gear to carry with them. I’d like to do a trip by hitchhiking sometime, especially with a partner.

Once I was underway the day became long and hard. My “fix” of the wheel didn’t last more than an hour before it was rubbing again. I made the tough choice to push on: if the tire failed, I would definitely not reach Charcas, but the alternative was to stop pedaling and not reach Charcas. It didn’t seem like a bad gamble.

I did try to mitigate the rubbing, however. I stopped several times to readjust the back wheel and even poured lubricant on it to reduce how badly it wore against the frame. But, determined, I got back on the seat every time.

By mid-afternoon it was clear I wouldn’t make Charcas before dark. I only passed through one more pueblo after that, and it was so small that I didn’t stop. I’m sure I could have spent a night there, huddled in my tent, but what would I do the next day? I’d be back in the same predicament.

During this period I crossed the Tropic of Cancer:

Photo by André.

Photo by André.

As the sun sank low in the sky, I finally reached an intersection in the desert highway. Turning right would take me to Charcas. There was no way I’d make it by nightfall, but it was only two hours off: with my lights on I could continue after dark.

I looked at my back tire. It was damn worn.


Glancing over to my right, I noticed a shrine. We weren’t near a church or a town or even a house; someone had just seen fit to erect a shrine by the roadside. I leaned my bike on its side and approached.

A narrow cement walkway led over a ditch to the front of the shrine. I froze. There under the little roof was a statue of St. Francis. The whole place was dedicated to him.

With one hand I dug up the pilgrim pendant I had gotten from his statue in Real de Catorce. I was so tired—and in such a hurry to reach Charcas—that I didn’t even look for an offertory. I threw the pendant over his statue into the back of the shine.

Respect the gods but do not ask for their help, said the philosopher in me.

“Saint Francis…” said my lips. “All I want is to reach Charcas safely tonight and not damage my bike too bad. Please help me.”

Then I put my hand over my heart, saluted, and was gone.

The sun indeed set on me. I froze in shorts and a t-shirt, wondering which of the lights on the distant hills was Charcas. Of course, there was a giant uphill slog before I reached it.

But I did reach it. Then I had only a maze of side streets between me and the Centro. One by one, I crossed them till I reached a street with several hotels on it. I vetted two of them, which were holes, before walking into the Malacate. Though it also looked like a hole from a distance, it was warm inside, clean, with working bathrooms and free water and coffee—and I’m not talking Nescafé. Even the wi-fi worked.

I was so exhausted I could have fallen asleep without dinner, but my day was far from over. First I showered and scrubbed the bike chain oil off my hands. Then I crossed the street to a little restaurant where I devoured a bowl of pozole:

Photo by André.

Photo by André.

This really, really hit the spot… along with an order of guacamole.

During dinner my body took on a leaden weight, insistent it needed to sleep. But I couldn’t allow it. I had to go back to the bicycle, now safe in my room at the Malacate, and get to work.

Dissecting the back wheel, I determined several things:

  • A spoke had broken. I don’t know if this happened on the initial speed bump or later on.
  • The entire back gear assembly was loose, giving the wheel a lot of play.

I determined I could fix both these problems. Tightening the gear assembly was fairly easy, and made me angry I hadn’t done it sooner. The spoke was another issue. I had a spare—four of them, to be exact—and thank the gods that it wasn’t on the side of the back wheel that would require removing the gears, since I never invested in that tool. But I had never changed a spoke before.

Youtube helped me out. Unsurprisingly, there were a lot of steps and lots of things to be taken off. The entire tire has to be removed, for example, and in this case I had to remove a second spoke in order to access the first one.

Once the spoke was changed—which went pretty well if I do say so myself—there was still the matter of truing the back wheel. This is done by tightening or loosening various spokes as if tuning a musical instrument. I have no experience at this, and did at best a mediocre job.

Still, I now had a working wheel with reduced wheel wobble. I had to install it somewhat off center in order to counteract the remaining wobble, the cause of which I couldn’t determine. But once it was installed it spun smoothly. I didn’t know how it would hold up under weight but it appeared to be temporarily fixed.

Scrubbing the oil from my hands, I glanced at my phone. It was well after midnight. I planned to keep riding tomorrow, still in the vague hope I’d make San Luis Potosí before the Dragon left.

Lips chapped, face sunburned, body cold, hands cut and dirty, I threw myself under the covers at long last and slept for a few precious hours. 75.8 miles.


Total traveled this leg: 75.8 miles.

Total traveled since Day 1: 3452.7 miles.

Next time I embark on the “Corridor of Oases” wondering if my back wheel will fail me. Until then, check out other road logs.

Adventure, Bicycling, Mexico, Religion, Road Logs, The Great Adventure, Travel

The Ghost Towns of Real de Catorce

Last time I labored over a mountain pass and crossed a desert, setting a new record for the most miles traveled in one day. This time begins my second rest stop in the town of Cedral, SLP.

Sunday, November 16 – Tuesday, November 18, 2014—Rest and Work

Although I had come a long way and arrived early (by the official itinerary), I couldn’t slack off. I had plenty of client work to do and started my time in Cedral by diving right into it.

That doesn’t mean I got no rest. My first morning, I slept till almost 9—my compensation for the early mornings preceding. But as I stirred, wearing only my briefs, I was surprised to see a face at my window: Doña Blanca was there, bringing me breakfast in bed!

She had originally invited me to dine downstairs, but since I was a late riser she brought my breakfast up to the apartment. I threw on my pants and opened the door, accepting the breakfast with my limited Spanish. It was no paltry meal:

Doña Blanca's breakfast. Photo by André.

Doña Blanca’s breakfast. Photo by André.

I spent most of the next two days working. There were occasional forays to the Centro for food (Blanca provided only one meal a day), and I made it a point to explore despite all the looks I got biking around town.

One thing I wanted to learn was where I could catch a bus to Real de Catorce, the nearby tourist destination/near ghost town/gateway to Huichol sacred land. When I asked about this in Abarrotes Conche, the corner store attached to the house, the woman behind the counter asked a 13 year old boy if he would show me the way. Thus began the first serious challenge to my Spanish speaking skills.

Juan, as my friend was called, was very friendly. We made chit chat as we walked toward the bus stop, as best we could with my limited Spanish. I tried to convey concepts much too complicated for my language proficiency, as I’m wont to do, but unlike adults he would question and question and question until we had a moment of communication. At one point, laughing, he told me, “Your Spanish is really bad.”

Later: “You need to learn more words.”

With that sage advice in mind we reached the bus stop, more an unmarked area where buses pause in their journeys than an official station. Juan rustled up Jorge Luis, Cedral’s bus fixer, who told me that I could catch a ride to Real every half hour for just $60 pesos. That was all I really needed to know; with the mission accomplished, I planned to return to working.

Juan had other ideas. “Where are we going now?” he asked.

Deciding to make the most of our time together, I thought about the other chores on my back burner. Blanca had been vague about what I should do for water: over the coming days, I would sometimes get free liters from her, sometimes need to pay for them, and sometimes simply go to other stores where I could get water cheaper.

“I need to get a galón,” I said, referring to a jug that actually holds several gallons. “At the Super. Want to come?”

Juan was game, but he wanted to show me his bike—and see mine. I agreed to wait a few moments while he ran home for the bici, and we saddled up.

As we cruised toward the Super, I pointed at his back rack. “I like your….. thing,” I said in Spanish.

“The grill?” (Helpful bike term: a rack is a parilla.)


“I use it when I work for my grandpa,” he said. “He grows onions and cilantro and I take them to market. But he lives 3 kilometers outside of town. It’s very far.”

I cracked up laughing. After Juan rode me all morning about my Spanish, here was something where I finally dominated.

“Very far!” I taunted. “Two days ago I rode 175 km in one day.”

Once Juan confirmed the numbers, I had finally won his respect. We entered the supermarket and left our bikes unlocked outside. I had seen many locals do this, but had always locked mine up regardless; now I left it up to Fortuna, as if my association with this 13-year-old don would protect my property.

Inside, we found galónes. I already wondered how I was supposed to tip my friend—he had helped me, and by Mexican logic I should tip him in some way. But I didn’t know how much, or when, or if it could be perceived as an insult (what if he was just being friendly?). Thankfully he made it easy for me: as we walked toward the checkout he asked, “Can I get some juice?” There was no doubt who was paying for it, and I agreed: at 6 pesos, it seemed like a low price. He’ll learn eventually.

On the way home Juan tried to convince me that I should try a nieve (snow cone), which I couldn’t explain to him pales in comparison to the snowballs of New Orleans. I perceived this as an attempt at another free treat and, since I really did have work to do, I passed on the offer.

Being a writer, not a photographer, I failed to snap Juan’s picture. We parted on friendly terms, but I wouldn’t see him again for the remainder of my stay.

Also during these two days I did some laundry with the help of some niños. It turned out pretty well.

But the real excitement of these days was what would come next. One of my traveler friends who happened to be in Mexico heard that my cycling companions had evaporated, and offered to come up to Cedral for a few days so we could go to Real de Catorce together. (That was actually a big part of why I headed to Cedral rather than Matehuala: my friend had spotted Doña Blanca’s place on AirBnB.)

Monday night I watched as a hired car rolled up the street to Abarrotes Concha, my friend sitting inside. After dropping off bags we headed to the only late night taquería in town. Getting some English-language conversation was divine, and not being the only guero in town didn’t hurt either. I was finally part of a small group again, rather than a lone oddity.

On Tuesday we both finished work for our respective clients and finalized our plans for Real.

Wednesday, November 19 (Day 866 of the Great Adventure)—Real de Catorce

Wednesday morning found us huddled in the cold desert wind just after breakfast under Jorge Luis’ watchful gaze. His full parilla of gold teeth gleamed as he reassured us we would love Real. Soon enough we were ushered aboard a (thankfully) warm bus and took our seats.

My friend opted to catch a final nap despite the blaring Will Smith action movie that suddenly lit up screens all around the bus. I preferred to gaze out the window, taking in a surreal cloud-covered landscape that got higher and steeper as we made our way to progressively less paved roads. Goat herders and an abandoned pueblo drifted out of the mist, the only sign of civilization until we reached the final approach: a cobblestone road curving up a mountain to a height of about 9,000 feet.

View on the way up the mountain. Photo by André.

View on the way up the mountain. Photo by André.

That was only the first course, however. At the top of the road we stopped and the few other passengers on board simply got up and left. With no explanation in either Spanish or English, we shrugged followed. All of us huddled around a faux colonial plaza, deserted except for a lone candy seller. We knew what came next—the Tunnel, which loomed at the edge of the plaza—but not exactly what the procedure was.

We didn’t have to wait long. A smaller bus rattled out of the mist and opened its door. Hopping aboard, I had a sneaking suspicion that it was the same driver wearing a different hat. The tiny group of travelers spread out on hard plastic seats and we rumbled toward the hole in the mountain.

There’s only one road in or out of Real de Catorce, and instead of going over one of the tallest mountains in Mexico it opts to go through it. The Ogarrio Tunnel is one part mine shaft, one part public works project, and one part tourist attraction. It’s also so narrow that it barely has just one lane; traffic takes turns coming in and going out. (“Taking turns” may be an overstatement, however, since at least on weekdays there was no real traffic waiting at either side.)

I was eager to see the Tunnel, because at one point I had considered bicycling through it. By that plan I would have biked up the mountain and through the Ogarrio to get into Real, then depart by a sort of goat trail to continue the Adventure. I nixed the idea because the first road is paved with tire-busting cobbles. I had also heard rumors that vehicle exhaust inside the Tunnel makes it virtually impossible to cross unless sealed inside a car or bus.

The rumors weren’t exaggerated. In the black of the tunnel I spotted a carved stone doorway, a branching mine shaft and, within a minute or two, clouds of haze choking out the yellow lamps overhead. With over a mile to go, the bus itself began to smell of exhaust.

Yes, we rode a bus through this. Photo via Mexico Desconocido

At length we spilled out into daylight and a mostly empty plaza. The other travelers seemed to know where they were going, and we vaguely followed. Soon we found ourselves mostly alone except for occasional hustlers hoping to sell us everything from breakfast or guidebooks to hallucinogenic cacti.

Our first mission was to find a hotel. We looked at several and settled on Hotel Corral de Conde, a mid-level choice with beautiful interiors but no heaters and wi-fi only in the lobby. Along the way we got the story on the “Catorce” (fourteen) the town is named after, from an old man outside the tourist office:

“There’re different versions. It can be fourteen anything. Fourteen bandits, fourteen Spanish soldiers, fourteen miners, fourteen Huicholes. It depends on who’s telling it.”

With our things deposited at the Corral we set out for the first objective of our stay: an ancient cemetery and chapel outside of town. Travel websites make it sound like it’s miles away, so that you’ll hire a horse (or a bike or a jeep) to get there, but it’s really about an 8 minute walk—at least once you get directions. The few locals on the street wore tourist blinders and had little interest in telling us the way, but we found a sun-faded and vine-covered map on a placard by the centro that gave us the right general bearing.

Streets of Real de Catorce. Photo by André.

Streets of Real de Catorce. Photo by André.

The walk may have been short, but it wasn’t easy. At 9,000 feet every breath of air is a lucha match. Add in a steep hill or three on every street in town and we understood why horse rides are so popular.

The view was worth it, however. At the edge of town we caught our first glimpse of what I’ll call the Cloud Desert, the Huichol sacred land straddled by the mountains that surround Real. It was one solid expanse of white below us, a fog-covered lowland where you can die of thirst while soaked with dew.

View of the clouds. Photo by André.

View of the clouds. Photo by André.

The cemetery before the chapel was crowded with old graves, many bearing fresh offerings. The chapel was built 300 years ago by a small mining community, and yet it’s more impressive than most cathedrals in the US. Even so, centuries of wear left the murals inside peeled and faded, looking more like Pollock paintings than pictures of angels.

The cemetery. Photo by André.

The cemetery. Photo by André.

Inside the Chapel. That's Guadalupe on  the  left.

Inside the Chapel. That’s Guadalupe on the left.

Chapel. Photo by André.

Chapel. Photo by André.

Damaged murals. Photo by André.

Damaged murals. Photo by André.

Flanking the chapel entrance are two holy images, Guadalupe on the left and St. Francis on the right. I had brought candles for both. I approached Guadalupe first. Lighting her candle was a struggle in the drafty mountain temple. Eventually, candle lit, I knelt before her and prayed. Guadalupe is a miraculous virgin who has been sainted by the Church, but whom many believe corresponds to an earlier Aztec goddess. Kneeling there, I understood that she was the female presence that had appeared to me on top of the mountain pass.

I also offered to St. Francis, although the town’s main image of him is actually kept in the parish church, not out here in the roadside chapel.

Afterward we sought out a late lunch. We settled on the restaurant at the high end Hotel Meson de la Abundancia, as much because it was warm inside as because of what was on the menu. The food was incredible, however, and this became our eatery for the next 24 hours.

While my friend checked in on client work, I ran some errands (like buying us water) and stopped by the parish church. It has the most unique floor I’ve ever seen. It seems to be made out of old mining pallets rather than planks, arranged like giant hardwood tiles. Each board of each pallet is rounded smooth from centuries of feet. They sounded hollow under my footsteps.

The parish church  with the great floors. Photo by André.

The parish church with the great floors. Photo by André.

I was there mainly to see the other image of St. Francis, however:

St. Francis. Photo by André.

St. Francis. Photo by André.

This one is reputed to be miraculous and is the object of a long annual pilgrimage. The people of Real apparently are quite attached to St. Francis and have various local nicknames for him. I made offerings to him for my mother, who has always held him especially close to her heart, and then took a small pilgrim pin from a jar of them beside the statue. (I’m actually not clear whether you’re supposed to pick one up when you pray there, or wear one on your pilgrimage and deposit it in the jar at the end; in any case St. Francis said to go ahead and take one if I wanted.)

By this time it was nearly dark and the chill intensified. I explored a bit more before heading back to the hotel. We both caught up on work and grabbed an evening snack at the Meson before heading to bed.

Kids practicing for a parade. Their brass section was better than the one in the Procession of Silence. Photo by André.

Kids practicing for a parade. Their brass section was better than the one in the Procession of Silence. Photo by André.

Thursday, November 20 (Day 867 of the Great Adventure)—El Pueblo Phantasmo

Our alarm went off long before dawn. There was something else we had to see before leaving Real, and the hike there and back would take all morning.

Real de Catorce itself is often called a ghost town, but the truth is it was only mostly deserted after the silver industry collapsed in the early 1900s. By now it’s made a resurgence and has plenty of year-round residents. Other communities in the area, however, were truly abandoned; whole villages sit around forgotten mineshafts in the hills. I had spent a good part of the previous afternoon rustling up exact directions to one. “Exact” might be an overstatement, but I was confident I could at least find the trail head.

The morning started with a cold breakfast in the dark. We had pestered the hotel clerk the day before with a million variants of the same question: is there a free breakfast? A paid breakfast? Coffee at least? Is there somewhere else we can go for breakfast?

No, she explained between sighs. There is nothing.

So we had pastries I’d bought from a local vendor the night before, and washed them down with cold water. Then we put on every layer of clothing we had and opened the door to the freezing mountain wind.

We made our way through the abandoned cobble streets. At the edge of town we were surprised to see one tiny kitchen that was actually open, run by the world’s grumpiest doña. She offered us go cups of Nescafé at Starbucks prices. We used them alternately as beverages and hand warmers as we continued on our way.

To the left of the Ogarrio tunnel entrance we found a gravel road up out of town. Soon we were in the mountains, the sky barely grey and the town shrinking in the darkened valley.

The sun rose somewhere between the mountaintops above us. The endless white of the Cloud Desert flared into being below, and then the rooftops of Real. The tolling of the church bell came to us on the wind.

Photo by André.

Photo by André.

This was no beginner’s hike. The trail was steep and the wind wasn’t just cold, it was also low on oxygen. We gulped for breath and sniffled, walking along the mountainsides.

This is what we found:

Photo by André

Photo by André

Photo by André.

Photo by André.

Photo by André.

Photo by André.

Photo by André.

Photo by André.

Photo by André.

It’s a bro on a burro. Photo by André.

Photo by André.

Photo by André.

The first set of ruins clustered around the opening to a vertical mineshaft, a pit in the earth twenty feet across. It was half-heartedly covered with wire mesh to discourage accidental skydiving. Dropping a rock through the mesh, we listened in silence. We never heard it hit bottom.

There were other, more diagonal mine shafts as well. I would have gladly explored the underground palace if we’d had more time and a bit of chalk. Responsible adventurer that I am, I contented myself with entering the foyer for now.

Wandering the ruins left us with many questions. Were any of these big stone buildings bunkhouses, or did the men sleep in tents? Did the men have wives and families out here, or just prostitutes? Did they leave their camp town and its chapel to go on leave in Real, or did they live up in the hills all the time? What happened to a man who took sick and couldn’t work?

Supposedly, the miners were paid a share of the monthly silver yield, which made it a lucrative job. I don’t imagine it was a safe one. I wonder how many of those men planned to do it only a little while, save up, and quit; and how many succeeded.

By the time we came down the mountain the sun was high in the sky. We collected our empty coffee cups from the branches where we’d stuck them on the way up. Unlike the miners, we left no sign that we’d ever been there.

Now everything in town was open. We had a late breakfast at the Meson, then rounded up our things at the Corral. We caught the noon bus just as it pulled into the tunnel, and began the trip back down. We’d had very little time in Real, but I’d already decided I needed to come back. It’s somewhere I’d like to rent a room for a few weeks and do a proper writing retreat. I’d also like to put on a backpack and hike the desert.

The tunnel and mountain road were less mystical now. We’d learned at least a few of their secrets, and the mist had begun to thin. In just an hour we were back in the ordinary world. We spent the rest of the day working, hanging out or looking for better food options around Cedral. We didn’t find many.

Friday, November 21 – Saturday, Novvember 22—Work and Planning

The next morning we once again rose before dawn. My friend had an early bus to catch, and we walked together to Jorge Luis’ bus stop. Afterward, alone again, I made my way home for one of Doña Blanca’s breakfasts and more work. I spent my last two days in Cedral writing, with afternoon and late evening forays to get food. There wasn’t much else to do in this sleepy little town, except plan my route onward.

Next time, I take off across the desert… which is the worst place to break down. Until then, here are the rest of the road logs.

Religion, Spotlight

Polytheism Ebook Fail

Michel Hill's Hill Evidencism Polytheism Book

So, I recently received an (unsolicited) free copy of an ebook on polytheism. The email was signed by author Michael Hill, but the email address looked a lot like spam. So instead of clicking the attachment I decided to do some googling.

I found out that there really is a polytheism treatise by Michael Hill, and it looks like a real hoot. According to the abstract:

“Numerous and unrelated pieces of physical evidence currently exist that proves the existence of the Gods.”


“A few examples of physical evidence, historical events like the Black Death, and some thoroughly-explained logic were combined to tell a complete story that reveals the answers to most religious questions.”

In case I was still on the fence, this pretty much confirmed that the book is not worth reading. Helpfully, the rest of the abstract brags that it’s a short, easy read. In fact, it says that of the 44 pages in the book (so… paper?), more than half is bibliography. In other words, Michael Hill believes he has polished off 6,000 years of theological debate in a handy 20 pages.

The best part is that Hill seems to be trying to found a whole new religion, “Hill Evidencism.” I finally gave in to curiosity and downloaded the complimentary pdf. Here’s a an actual quote:

“The main reason why lightning is physical divine evidence is because lightning frequently introduces humans to fire… After being introduced to fire, humans learned how to use fire.”

It’s hard to argue with reasoning like that… but not for the reasons Hill would like to think.

All of this reminds me that, although polytheism is a beautiful concept, there’s not a whole lot of respectable work being written about it these days.

I wonder if I should take the time to write a polytheism book of my own?

Fellowship of the Wheel, Mexico

Postcards Sent

Guess what I mailed today? If you’re a supporter of the Fellowship of the Wheel and are owed a postcard, it is now on its way! I found 14 beautiful cards, spent the morning writing notes to each of you, and mailed them today.

The postman says that those of you in the US or Canada will receive them within 1-2 weeks; South Africa more like two and a half weeks. I have no idea if those numbers are accurate.

Thank you again to everyone who contributed, at any level. I carry the card with your names on it on the bike and you have my gratitude every day.

Road logs will continue soon!

André, Spanish, Writing

The Goldfish and the Purple Cat

Photo by Gracias

This week my Spanish tutor asked us to write a composition using some of the irregular verbs we’d learned. He wanted just one page in a notebook, with something simple like what we’d done that day before school. But since everyone made such a big deal about the fact that I’m a writer, I decided I had to spend some time on it. I submitted a short story about a goldfish and a purple cat. My hope was to capture some of the morbid outlook of Mexican culture.

I’m just going to put this here, untranslated, for those of you who speak (or read) Spanish. I do welcome feedback and corrections, as I have no illusions that it’s perfect, but it’s really just here for your entertainment.

El Gato Morado y el Pez Dorado

Érase una vez, en una casa invertida, en medio del mar, vivieron juntos un gato morado y un pez dorado. La casa flotaba al reves sobre el oceano. El pez dorado vivía en una charca delgado y larga que se había filtrado en la cima del techo. El gato, en cambio, prefiría las ventanas y los cabrios. El pez no podía saltar al mar y el gato no podía nadar a la tierra. Así que tuvieron una vaga amistad y, por la noche, jugarían al ajedras.

Sin embargo, el pez intuyó que al gato tenía hambre. Al principio había comido su comida enlatada y, cuando acabó, había comido las termitas, porque termitas no pueden jugar al ajedras. Eventualmente era sólo el morado y el dorado.

El pez concluyó que su destino era ser una botána por un gato. Y, pues no creyó que una persona o un pez puede muy bien influir su destino, decidió abrazarlo. Pero, prefirió a encuentrarlo luchando.

Cuando vino el gato por él, el pez estaba grueso, gordo, lleno, y envuelto en una pieza de perejil. El morado sonrió. En un solo movimiento el gato clavó sus colmillos en su amigo. Tragandolo, notó un sabor raro: el distinto sabor de pesticida para termitas.

La casa flotó sobre las olas en perfecto quietud.

Mexico, Photographs, Travel

Photo Friday: The Man in the Mirror

This is the view of the Templo de Carmen from the seventh floor of the Hotel Maria Cristina in San Luis, Potosí:

Photo by André

Photo by André

Since snapping this, I’ve taken a one week break to enroll in a Spanish immersion school including a homestay with a local host family. It’s challenging but very well structured and that makes learning the language a lot less difficult than you might think. It also takes virtually all of my time, which means I’m falling behind on road logs—but I do hope to have more up soon.